Walking through the village one rainy Friday evening in February I was drawn to English voices at the bar. Three young men, hatted and well wrapped up, were sitting outside drinking pastis and smoking. They occupied one of four tables and their breath condensed as they spoke. For the second time since I moved here alone, I wanted, not to join in exactly - but to sit near and exchange a word or two with strangers. The first time had not been a success. A few days following